Little restaurant wins big award

Brix 25º is recognized for its Washington wine collection

Susan Schell

of the Gateway

In the current issue of Seattle Magazine, Gig Harbor residents can read a familiar name in its glossy pages: “Brix 25º,” a small restaurant at the bottom of Pioneer Avenue, nabbed the award for the Washington Wine Restaurant of the Year.

“What’s really cool about this is that we are the first restaurant outside of King County to win this award,” general manager Jason Winniford said.

Winning wine awards is nothing new to Brix, said Winniford, who was dashing about in a grayish-silver suit, chatting with his executive chef and fielding calls on his cell phone.

The restaurant won “Most Improved Wine Program” in 2006 and “Most Innovative Wine List in the State” in ’07.

“But this is the first time we got the big boy,” he said, answering another phone call and jotting down details for a reservation. The manager doesn’t mind menial duties.

“It’s what the general manager has to do in a small place like this,” he said casually.

Executive chef Dan Hutchison said the restaurant is named after Adolph Brix, a German scientist who conceived how to measure the concentration of sugar in fruit. That’s very important in wine making, Hutchison said, as most wine makers shoot for a “Brix 25º” measurement of sugar and alcohol.

“The award is for our dedication to Washington wines,” Hutchison said. “All of our wines are exclusively from the Pacific Northwest; predominantly, Washington.”

Winning the award involves more than just the quality of the wine list. Producing the wine list to the Washington Wine Commission is just the start, Hutchison said.

“They take everything into account,” he said. “It’s about how we promote it, how we execute it and how the wines are presented. We use only Riedel crystal for our wine glasses, and we offer decanting service. If you call ahead, we can decant the wine up to three hours in advance.

“It’s all about our love of what the state is producing.”

Hutchison said the Brix’s “captain’s list” has some incredibly rare wines on it.

“We have one wine that only had 72 cases produced in the entire world,” he said. “It’s very hard to get rare Washington wines.”

One of the secrets behind the success of Brix’s wine list is the open-minded and innovative attitude of its wine director, Daniel Jackson. He said he picks wines by their flavor, and he gives no bones about trying new ones.

“I don’t care about a wine’s reputation,” he said. “I’m big on wines that have no reputation. What we’re trying to do is keep the old guys, but bring in the new guys that make the killer juice.”

Jackson developed his love for wine while working at Fuller’s in the Sheraton Towers in Seattle.

“That’s where it all started,” he said. “That’s when I started tasting wine.”

He bought his first case of wine and drank one bottle a year for 12 years, “just to taste the difference,” he said.

The director does not get to visit the vineyards as much as he would like to, though, because the restaurant keeps him busy five days a week.

“The winemakers come to me,” he said.

He does take in trade shows when he can, and he devours the chance to expand his palate.

“I love trade tasting,” he said. “I’ve learned to spit very well. And I take notes. I try the new and re-taste the old — 90 percent of my decisions are made right in my mouth. If I don’t like it, I don’t bring it in.”

Jackson sings the same song most wine enthusiasts are chiming these days: Washington wines are giving California producers a run for their money.

“I’ve done blind taste tests at trade shows against California wines,” he said. “And 19 times out of 20, the Washington wines seem to be the winner. We’re beating all the big boys out in Napa.”

And that backs up Jackson’s confidence to showcase small wineries at Brix.

“Compared to 30 years ago, the quality of wine in this state has spiked to the point where you can’t survive if you’re no good,” he said. “These small handfuls of winemakers are putting out limited quantities, and I seek out these guys. They’re pouring incredible stuff.”

Reach reporter Susan Schell at 253-853-9240 or by e-mail at susan.schell@gateline.com.